A new year in Novosibirsk, I found the Chabad house on day two of searching, which seems to be the only gig in town. The synagogue was extremely difficult to find, which I think is not an accident. I followed several false leads, ended up poking my head into the Catholic church across the street. A kind priest showed me the way.

I canceled classes for the new year, so I have a four-day weekend. It makes for a welcome pause after a very involved first week of immersion.

Some students from my "business English" class just stopped by to wish me a happy new year. They wanted me to tell them all about matzo, which I did!

Someone has changed my sheets! It is miraculous! I will make my bed as best I can, considering that they don't quite reach.

I met a fellow from Ghana today who reports that one Kwasi Poku is "a great man, very wise."

It is a bit taxing to introduce myself to several groups of new students every day. I need to remember that starting on Thursday, I'll be seeing most of the same faces (except for the faces that skipped class). Then, we can settle into a rhythm.

A full day of class today (beginning at 11:50). Now it is time to cook some onions, spinach, chicken, black pepper, olive oil, buckwheat.

My schedule now feels much more manageable now that I know the students. Pretty much across the board, they are engaged, respectful, and active. A bit shy at times.

I spent a good chunk of today's class time exploring my own agenda and discussing the prospect of environmental activism. Serendipitously, that is the assigned topic for the next few weeks, so I am vigorously picking their brains. That's a figure of speech I taught today: to pick a brain.

For the most part, they have an answer as to why every hopeful idea will not work. They told me of many failed projects, their sense of national apathy, and frustration with a corrupt government and police force. No point in imposing large fines for littering, this will just give the police an opening to take bribes.

In spite of their gloomy outlook, my students were happy to entertain a naive American and a vision of a cleaner, safer world. So far, nine of them have signed up for my proposed club, in which we will educate ourselves, discuss, and act.

Four classes and so far only one boy. What is with this!

I had a long conversation today with one of my classes (five girls) about people littering in Russia. They think it is partially because of the "Russian character" - lazy, alcoholic, passive. But they are quick to point out that, in fact, Russians are wonderful folk, good-hearted, industrious, and these negatives characteristics are just a stereotype imposed by foreigners. But then why is there trash everywhere?

I've been thinking about which specific issue might get people fired up. What if the Ob River, runs through the city, were safe to swim in? Is that realistic? Are any city rivers safe to swim in, anywhere in the world?

Now would be a good time to press for any sort of government action, what with Duma and presidential elections coming up in a few months. Even if street protest is taboo, United Russia would do well to prove its value and deliver what the people want.

The trick, I suppose, is getting the people to say what they want.

I have a new friend: Nastia. Nastia has noticed that I have the sniffles. Nastia thinks I am very irresponsible because I have not yet seen the doctor. Nastia wants me to know that winter in Siberia is extremely cold, and my sniffles will not go away if I continue to sit on the floor while I use my computer. In fact, Nastia knows that this foul habit is the cause of my sniffles. When Nastia writes down directions to the shopping center, she writes careful, large letters that I will surely be able to read. Nastia has gone to eat a snack, but Nastia will return promptly with more helpful suggestions.

Went to buy a fur hat today but it was $200! Gah! I'll shop around and find a good deal.

Some other things that I need:

a knife
umbrella

We went to the "sea" today, which is actually a big lake. There is garbage everywhere on the beach, and I wonder whether this bothers the Russians, whether Russia needs to be a big dump everywhere. Maybe the government could help to clean it up? I don't think it would take too much time and money to at least pick up the bottles.

I'm fairly sure that 100 years ago, Russia wasn't a big dump. How things have changed!

The park is bubbling with unicorns, mushrooms, penguins, tiger, and there I sit, at the foot of a stag, munching on little pieces of herring. Fall leaves swirl, whisper of frost to come.

I took a risk and opened my door. There stood three hall-neighbors, all exceedingly curious and not at all interested in speaking English. Jackpot.

knock knock knock knock knock

"Who is it?"

"Open the door!"

"Who are you?"

"Friends!"

"What?"

"We want have chat with you!"

Long story short, I peeped my nose through the crack and all was well. Such tame and sociable Russians. I think tomorrow, we're going to all hang out and get to know each other.

I have, I have been described as bumbling. And here, in this land of irregular steps and slippery stones, I am a hot mess of mushy kasha, I am highly focused on staying functional, but putting one foot in another has simply not happened! Fortunately I have not yet injured myself or anyone else. There is just so much to think about, but I still have to focus on the essentials!

I met my first class today. They are all young ladies, eight of them. They were doubtful of my goofy activities at first, but no longer. Apparently today's class was like none other, so they say. Check.

Luggage is coming tomorrow. I'll believe it when I see it!

Tomorrow night, there will be an "American Party" at "the best bar in town." Garrett and I are going to hit that with our down-home charm, boyish good looks, score some free drinks?

Things are strikingly normal here - people live, eat, study, work, procreate, probably some multitasking mixed in. I constantly forget that I am in Siberia, such a distant, remote land. So far, it makes no difference, except for a whopper of a flight.

Things I now have:

-a new button-down shirt, $12
-two button-down shirts left for me by Phillip (my predecessor)
-a cell phone
-Phillip's cross-country skis + winter garb
-chopsticks
-a head of lettuce, in dirt with roots, among other foodstuffs

Intrepid travelers Puppy and Grey Bear, if you are reading this, we are searching for you, and I will have prepared hot tea and a warm bed upon your arrival!

Fully loaded with green tea and protein, off to NGTU to meet the department. Score on the stovetop, I've got one, rather, we've got a few to share on the seventh floor, so I'm safe to buy eggs for the morning.

HOWEVER the breakfast is so cheap, I paid 50 rubles, about $1.50, and I'm still completely stuffed, that I might not be cooking each and every morning. For now, the fridge is full. And I have my own fridge, and it's in my locked room, so there are options, I'll take it one day at a time.

The dorm has wifi, but only in this one room, where I sit amongst giggly Russian first-years who want me to buy them vodka. They shut up pretty quickly whenever I start speaking English. It's sort of like a super power.

I'm all moved in, stocked up on some groceries, and I've got about everything I need (I think). There's one other American in the dorm, and he is exceedingly friendly. Garrett. I'll be wearing his button-down tomorrow, because I arrived with only little white tees for my upper half.

Twice already, I've been told that I'm in "the real Russia" or "the heart of Russia." Petersburg and Moscow are the facade. What does this all mean? I've got some Novosibirski cheese in my fridge, so maybe I'll have a taste of all that meaning soon enough.

On the train from Sheremetovo Airport to my wee rendezvous with Jon. Night is slowly giving way to a cloudy shimmer, the city and environs whir past - river, graffiti, rail tracks, crumbling Soviet slabs, onion domes, shiny banks.

I accidentally put a leaky water bottle in my coat pocket, so I've stretched that out to dry. Somehow, a wet coat pocket is more aggravating than two delays, a missed flight, and a lost piece of luggage.

I'll go pay attention to the scenery now.

Arrival in Novosibirsk has been finally, officially, inevitably delayed ~12 hours, hoping not to cause an inconvenience, but so it has gone. My Russian phone seems not to have survived a year in the states, maybe the battery corroded, but I've arranged a rendezvous with Eph+Muscovite Jon Earle, who will kindly guide me from SVO --> DMO.

Skyped with Travelocity and arranged a new flight out of Moscow, I've been instructed to Please check in with Ghana Airways Corp on the day of departure.  and that is what I shall do. Woke up this morning airborne with a hot meat sandwich on my lap, left by the LOT Polish Airlines stewardess who meant business. I'm off to redeem my free meal voucher now, given to me in exchange for the troubles I've seen, troubles which, to date, have not bothered me.

Announcements are in Polish, no translation, here I am in Chicago. I've got a new flight now. Several hours in Albany, a weather-related delay, while my scheduled flight left Chicago for Warsaw without me. The party line: Leo Brown's luggage will be in Moscow upon his arrival.

Announcements are in Polish, and I might be the only passenger who notices or cares, but we are a hearty crop, and I will board as one of the herd.

I hope they will feed me dinner. My original flight was to leave at Time for Supper, but this one is for 21:50. This new flight is now delayed. They told us (in English, for some reason) as I wrote that last sentence. In case they do not feed me dinner, I bought a bag of nuts, which I gobbled only partially. The rest is in my pocket, just in case.