-15 C

Back from Chanukkah on Ice. Much like you might expect. So many Jews were skating around!

Tomorrow I leave for Israel, and I have way too much fruit to tear through in the next twelve hours.

~

Вернулся домой от праздника "Ханука на коньках." Было вообще как вы бы ожидали (предполагали?). Так много евреев катались!

Завтра я уеду в Израиль, и у меня есть слишком много фруктов пожирать на сутку.

-14.0 C

Hanukkah was ruined. I forgot the first night, which, you know, happens. So I went to the synagogue tonight, a fine solution, but no one was there! The sun had set before I thought it would, so I guess I missed them.

Just before giving up altogether, I called the leader of the Violin Ensemble, who is Jewish! I have another Jewish friend, but his cell phone isn't working. I forgot about Mikhail Semyonovich, the violinist, until the last possible moment before turning in for the evening.

An hour later, we sat around the table with three candles and plenty of wine. I suspect that this celebration might not have occurred had I not invited myself. But so it did. And then, Mikhail Semyonovich and his family explained that the real Hanukkah event in Novosibirsk will occur on Sunday: "Hanukkah on Ice." I now have a ticket, and I won't speculate further.

~

Ханука была разрушена. Я забыл первую ночь, как, знаете, бывает. Итак я пошёл в синагогу сегодня вечером, хорошое решение, но никто там не было! Сольнце зашло раньше чем, я ожидал, поэтому мне кажется, что я с ними не встретился.

Перед тем, как я перестал пытаться, я позвонил лидр Ансамбля Скрипачей, который еврейский! У меня другой еврейский друг, но его мобилник сейчас не работает. Я забыл о Михайле Семёновиче, скрипач, до последного момента перед тем, как пошёл домой.

Через час, мы сидили вокруг стола с трёмя свечами и много вина. Я подозреваю, что это празднование не было бы если бы я не себя пригласил. Но прошло. И потом, Михайл Семёнович и своё семя обясняли мне что настоящое происшествие Хануки будет в воськресение: "Ханука на Коньках." У меня теперь билет, и я не буду спекулировать дальше.

-15.0 С

I realized that besides looking at the ceiling and using the Internet, I haven't really done anything by myself in a long time. I've had a lot of good times with friends, but I was feeling like as soon as I'm alone, everything shuts down.

I did a bit of exploring today. I bought a magazine that I can barely read and looked at it for a while. I walked down a street with a few cafes and found a nice one with some techno thumps and minimal smoke. The communists are waving flags by Lenin's statue in the main square. After this, I'm going to swing by the bookstore.

I'm putting together a little list of things to show Sato during her Siberian adventure.

~

Я осознал, что кроме того, как я плевал в потолок и использовал интернет, я долго не делал ничего один. Я часто хорошо проводил время с друзьями, но чувствовал, что как только остаюсь один, всё замирает.

Я немножко исследовал город сегодня. Купил журнал, который я почти не могу читать и простро листал его. Я прошёлся по улице с несколькими кафе и нашёл одно приятное, где играло техно и мало курили. Коммунисты размахивают флагами рядом с памятником Ленина на главной площади. После этого, я пойду в книжкый магазин.

Я создаю небольшой список вещей, которые покажу Сато во время её сибирского приключения.

-6.0 C

I was explaining the caveman diet during a presentation on American food culture when I realized that that's basically what I eat! Maybe I would fit in with the cavemen.

Also, there were some interesting ideas as to why Novosibirsk would be better off with McDonald's, namely that as of now, we're stuck with shitty Central Asian fast food, and furthermore, maybe our relatives from the village would visit us if we had a McDonald's.

~

Я объяснял рацион первобытного человека во время презентации Американской культуры питания, когда осознал, что это то, что я ем! Может быть, мне бы было удобно с неандертальцами.

Кроме этого прозвучало было несколько интересных идей, почему бы было лучше, если бы в Новосибирске был МакДоналдс. Самое главно потому, что у нас сейчас есть только ужасный Центрально-Азиатский фастфуд, и вдобавок, может быть, наши родственники из деревни бы приезжали к нам, если бы у нас был Макдоналдс.

-9.7 C

I have a little over a week of classes left, maybe two (I never know for sure). Then I will travel the world and resume teaching in February.

How much yogurt will I eat before my time is up?  In Novosibirsk, there is not only Greek yogurt, but Bulgarian yogurt as well! I haven't noticed a big difference. Anyway, I bought eight containers today - four Greek, four Bulgarian - just to be diplomatic.

~

У меня ещё чуть больше недели занятий или, может быть, две (я никогда не знаю точно).  Потом я буду путешествовать по миру и в феврале снова буду преподавать.

Сколько йогуртов я съем перед тем, как уеду? В Новосибирске есть не только Греческий йогурт,  как в Америке, а также Болгарский йогурт! Я ещё не заметил разницы. Сегодня, я купил восемь шутк - четыре Греческих, четыре Болгарских - просто чтобы было дипломатично.

-13.4 С

It's exciting to be here during election season, with rumors, opinions, and suspicion swirling. But how odd to be totally excluded from participation in any action or serious political conversation, according to the terms of my grant.

Aside from my personal impulse to jump into the thick of political activism, I have no doubt that this is the correct course for me. With politicians and common folk alike wondering to what extent this whole matter has been instigated by the West, any involvement by a U.S. State Department grantee would serve primarily to color this narrative. I do not want this to happen, so I will sit tight.

~

Это очень интересно быть в России во время выборов, в круговороте слухов, мнений и подозрений. Но так странно быть исключенным из участия в каком-либо действии или серьёзном политическом разговоре в соответствии с условиями моего Гранта.

Если не учитывать моего импульса окунуться с головой политический активизм, я не сомневаюсь, что я на правильном пути. Пока политики и обычные люди спрашивают, до какой степени эту ситуацию подстрекает Запад, какое-либо участие получателя стипендии Государственного Департмента США лишь подливало бы масло в огонь. Я не хочу, чтобы это произошло, поэтому я посижу тихо.

-3.0 C

I just found one of my lost markers!

Every week or so, I buy a new whiteboard marker. Each teacher carries around their own. I don't know why this is, and in my case, it only results in many lost markers.

Why can't we just have a bowl of markers that everyone shares? Or maybe the markers could live in the classrooms.

I don't know, but we don't.

~

Я сейчас нашёл один из моих потерянных маркеров!

Каждую неделю я покупаю новый маркер для доски. У каждого преподаватели свои собственные маркеры. Я не знаю почему здесь такая система. но в моём случае результат один - много потерянных маркеров.

Почему мы не можем иметь специальное место для маркеров, которыми могут пользоваться все? Или, может быть, в каждой комнате должен жить свой маркер.маркеры могуь жить в комнатах.

Я не знаю почему, но ни того, ни другого у нас нет.

-6.4 C

Surrounded (physically) by evidence of my green tea fix.  Including I don't want to throw out the used leaves.  Including I am awake before my alarm, a new and odd habit.  So what if I nibble on the old ones?

~

Окружен (физически) доказательством моей склонности к зелёному чаю. В том числе, что не хочу выбрасывать уже использованные чайные листья. В том числе, я проснулся перед тем, как зазвонил будильник. Новая и странная привычка. А что такого в том, что я грызу вчерашние листочки?

-5.3 C

Politics, an alphabet, oceans, hair. Russia and America will always be separate in certain fundamental ways.

But above all else, I hear every day about the primary wedge between my nation and my hosts: "different mentalities." Most everyone agrees. This is the main thing.

Yes, we are different. But would you not say that American and Britain have different mentalities? America and France? Somehow, we remain steadfast allies.

This is not important. Russia and America have different mentalities, so we will remain, at best, cautious friends.

As I insist that this couldn't possibly be true, that there's no reason why Cold War reflexes won't soften over the years, that I can't even think of why America would bother to invade Russia (especially in the winter), so Russia might as well stop worrying, I realize that I am proving my friends' point.

Because I can't believe that different mentalities should have such an impact on international relations.  And they won't see it any other way. And that's all it takes.

~

Политика, алфавит, океаны, волосы. Россия и Америка всегда будут разделены в нескольких фундаментальных направлениях.

Но из всех мненей, я чаще всего слышу о самом сильном столкновении между моей странной или страной, в которой я гость - "разный менталитет." Все согласны. Это главное.

Да, мы разные. Но разве бы вы не сказали, что у Америки и Британии разный менталитет? У Америки и Франции? Но так или иначе, мы остаёмся верными союзниками.

Это не важно. У России и Америки разный менталитет, и поэтому наша дружба будет осторожной в лучшем случае.

Однако я убеждён, что настоящая дружба между нашими странами возможна, что нет причины, почему отголоски Холодной Войны не могли бы смягчиться, что я не могу придумать причину, из-за которой Америка бы хотела вторгаться в Россию (особенно зимой). Итак, Россия должна перестать беспокоиться, я знаю, что доказываю точку зрения своих друзей.

Потому что я не могу верить, что наш разный менталитет влияет международные отношения так сильно.  А друзья со мной не согласны. Из-за этого, у нас проблемы.

-9.8 C

Just bought some tea leaves, which I wasn't expecting. But now I can make tea from leaves! Many wonderful things happen when you can't read the labels. Challenges, possibilities, failures, improvisation, rebound, catharsis, calm.

Apotheosis.

~

Сейчас купил листовой чай, хотя и не предполагал делать этого. А теперь я могу заваривать чай из листочков! Много замечательных вещей происходит, когда не читаешь этикетки. Трудности, возможности, неудачи, импровизация, отдача, катарсис, спокойствие.

Апофеоз.

-17.5 C

I was sitting in my office today, bumbling around on the Internet in search of material for my class of teachers. My concern was that they would not go for the narration and miming party I've been doing with my other classes.

In marched two young women. They would be putting on a comedy show at one of Novosibirsk's premier theatres, the Palace of the Railway Workers' Culture. I must attend!

Well, I have a performance of my own on that day, as it happens. The Violin Ensemble of the Novosibirsk State Technical University! Perhaps you've heard.

Well no, I don't know what time my performance will be. I'm not sure where it is, no. I know the street. Yes, it is a rather long street, I realize.

But I needn't worry! There will be another comedy performance, this one in February! Surely, I haven't made plans.

No, I haven't.

They did not leave until I had given my phone number. Email would not do. I probably could have kicked them out somehow, but I'm sure they are harmless.

~

Я сидел в своём офисе сегодня, гуляя по Интернету в поисках материалов к своему уроку для преподавателей. Меня беспокоил то, что им бы не понравилась форма с повествованием и мимами, которую я устраивал с другими группами.

В офис вошли две девушки. Они играют в комедийном спектакле в одном из лучших театров Новосибирска - Дворец Культуры Железнодорожников. Мне надо прийти!

Ну, у меня тоже выступление в этот день, на самом деле. Ансамбль Скрипачей НГТУ! Может быть, вы слышали.

Да нет, я не знаю во сколько моё выступление. Я не совсем знаю, где оно будет, нет. Знаю, на какой улице! На длинной улице, да.

Мне не надо беспокоиться! Будет ещё другой комедийный спектакль в феврале! Конечно, у меня нет пока планов.

Нет, я ещё не планировал ничего.

Они не уходили до тех пор, пока я не дал им свой номер. Электронный адрес не хотели. Наверное, я мог бы выпроводить их из комнаты как-нибудь, но я уверен, что они безвредны.

-11.7 C

My mug is rich with stains from green tea. I do not hold back. It's nice when you don't have to use any restraint whatsoever in some tiny aspect of life. Why would I not drink green tea?

I saw my friend for the first time in a couple of weeks. "Do you need a kitten?" she asked.

I do need a kitten, I really do. And this kitten needs me. But I will be traveling, and in June I will be leaving, and maybe I will not be the best caretaker for this kitten. And kittens are forbidden in the dorm.

I read that immigrant kittens have to be quarantined for a good while. That would not be such a nice way to see America for the first time.

~

Моя кружка в тёмных пятнах от зелёного чая. Я не удержался. Это приятно, когда совсем не надо сдерживаться в каком-то маленьком аспекте жизни. Почему бы мне не пить зелёный чай?

Я встретился с моей подругой первый раз за две недели. "Тебе нужен котёнок?" - спросила она.

Мне нужен котёнок, очень. И этому котёнку нужен я. Но я буду путешествовать, и в июне уезжаю, и из-за этого я, может быть, был бы не лучшим хозяином для этого котёнка. И котята запрещены в обшаге.

Я прочитал, что ввозимые котята долго остаются на карантине. Это быо был не самым приятным способом знакомства с Америкой.

-4.9 C

A tough week with too much to do and ponder.  On top of that, a kitchen incident involving cabbage that has left me, well...still functional!

I'm home from my second presentation at the American Corner.  Tonight, I told them what I know and think about the history and future of student activism.  I had done a good deal of preparation, but what with racist graffiti at Williams and the booting of Occupy, I hardly needed a plan.

So now it is me and Fyodor and Puppy and Grey Bear, having a boys night, breathing deep, listening to our souls as they shuffle around.

~

Это сложная неделья - слишком много вещей нужно сделать и обдумать. Кроме того, к тому же, было кухное происшествие с капустой, которое оставило меня, ну…пока ещё функционирующим!

Я дома после моей второй презентации в Американском Уголке. Сегодня вечером я рассказал всё, что знаю и думаю об истории и будущеем студенческого активизма. Я долго готовился перед презентацией, но с расистским граффитом в Уиллиямзе и выселением Оккупации мне не нужно было никакой подготовки.

Итак, сейчас мы здесь с Фёдором и Собачкой и Серым Медведем проводим свободную ночь, дышим глубоко, прислушиваемся к нашим душам, пока они витаят вокруг.

-5.1 C

When you're on the bus from Gorno-Altaisk to Novosibirsk, and you are suddenly alone, and the bus is not moving, and the lights are on,

I thought that when people started debussing, it was just another small city station on the long road north. But no.

We have arrived at a Siberian rest stop! Cabbage! Pork! Ice cream! Beer! Twenty minutes, the driver told me, though I haven't a clue when these twenty minutes began.

And here I am, back on the bus and rolling on, my gut loaded with some of what this bazaar in the tundra thrust upon my plate. 142 kilometers ahead, my bed is horizontal and ready to receive my ripe form.

~

Когда едешь на автобусе из Горно-Алтайска в Новосибирск, и ты срочно один, и автобус стационарый, и светы выключены,

Я подумал, что когда пассажиры начали выйти, был просто eщё другой городок на длинной дороге на север. Да нет.

Мы приехали в сибирскую остановку отдыха! Капуста! Свинина! Мороженое! Пиво! Через двадцать минут, сказал водитель, хотя совсем не знаю, когда эти двадцать минут начались.

Итак, вот здесь я, ещё раз в автобусе и дальше еду, наелся тем, что этот базар в тундре мне бросалю. 142 километров дальше, мой кровать горизонтальный и готов получить моё спелоё тело.

-9.2 C

As part of my effort to learn Russian, I hereby present: bilingual posts!  Please root out and correct my errors.

I'm taking the night bus to Gorno-Altaisk in a couple of hours.  My fellow Fulbrighter Dani and I have big plans to make borsch with some of my beets.  Borsch is better made with a friend (I assume).

I'll be sure to water my plant before I leave!  I've decided to name him Fyodor, partially because it is Fyodor Dostoevsky's birthday, and partially because I don't know any Russians here named Fyodor.

~

Я представляю вам двуязычные заметки, как часть моих усилий выучить русский язык! Пожалуйста, найдите и исправьте мои ошибки.

Я поеду в Горно-Алтайск ночным автобусом через несколько часов.  Мы с моей подругой Дани собираемся приготовить борщ из моей свёклы. Борщ, приготовлённый вместе с друзьями, лучше, считаю.

Я не забуду полить моё растение перед тем, как уеду!  Я решил назвать его Фёдором, отчасти потому, что сегодня день рождения Фёдора Достоевского, и отчасит потому, что я здесь ещё не встречал русских с этим именем.

-8.1 C

A Russian handshake is full and meaty. Thick.

A Russian handshake will find you.

A Russian handshake will tickle your notion of how things are, because maybe you haven't been thinking about things very carefully.

You are a representative of mankind!

A Russian handshake does not consider who, or what, or where, or why you thought you need to be.

A Russian handshake marches towards, and through, and beyond any mortal revolution.

In Russia, hands shake you.

5.3 C

I don't think I've ever been in a concert that I knew less about. Yesterday was some sort of International Festival, and so naturally, violin club played our ever-popular "Jewish Fantasy." A medley of Hava Nagila, Hatikva, etc. The Russians eat it up.

They shoved us onstage in between the Georgian choir and an Imperial court troupe. We played our gig, plowed though the mass of tiny peasant dancers waiting in the wings, and went home. Actually, after that, we went to the train station, where we then played our entire repertoire for a hall full of unsuspecting travelers. And then we went home.

4.8 C

I've decided to include the temperature in each post. As you can see, we're doing OK. I was worried that the streets and sidewalks would be frozen until April, but I'm told that the weather now is what spring feels like. I look forward to spring!

I went to this great cafe with some new friends. I think the theme was Arab, or Muslim, or maybe "the Orient," or maybe "countries where it's hot."

I also took off my jacket and revealed that I have dietary restrictions up the wall. It's just as well to break that news gently and on a second or third date. That way, I don't need to explain myself to every single person I meet, especially if it's hard to say whether I'll see that person again. Also, if I tell people how complicated I am right away, maybe they will run away before getting emotionally involved!

So yes, it is a sign of true friendship and commitment.

And these true friends understood why I asked what type of meat is in this soup, and they understood why it was funny when the waitress said, "sausage"

OK great thanks

I have finally figured out how to use my oven, which involves getting a rack from the administrator on the first floor, and now my head is swimming with inspiration. I have a strong urge to buy and roast an entire chicken. I have an even stronger urge to take all of the ingredients I own and mix them together in my pan, stuffing this into that, sprinkling the rest atop.

Earlier today, I took a thirty minute pause. It was not at all a nap, though I could have used one. I remember at Williams, some of the most stressful days came when all I did was work and sleep. Being awake for a pause can help.

It is true that during this particular pause, I rushed to the computer twice to do things that I had been meaning to do. But this, too, was relaxing, and a relief.

My class and I cooked the squash, with only minor complications, and soon we will consume it at Halloween Party #3.

I figured it would be a rather dull discussion about obesity in America, the importance of nutrition and exercise, etc. Instead, I learned a few basic truths that were obvious to everyone else in the room.

*Hot food is healthier than cold food. If it's cold, heat it up. Especially cereal. Bag lunches aren't healthy because they are cold.

*Sandwiches make you fat. All they are are bread and meat. And mayo.

*Americans are genetically predisposed to be fat. Don't believe it? Look at the Brits. They are thin enough, and all they do is stand around eating sandwiches and drinking beer.

*Brits are also genetically predisposed to be kind of fat. You can tell because British women are a little fatter than Russians, Poles, and Bulgarians. My husband noticed this when he traveled to London for a business trip.

Take note!

I'm off to get my multi-entry visa. As of now, if I leave Russia, I will not be allowed back in. So I'll spend the morning shuffling around on the ice, getting visa photos snapped in a street stand, begging a bank to accept my 1000 rubles, and acting like my whole situation is very straightforward, and only a fool would not understand. I find it helps to imagine I'm a Zamboni.

I've known this for a while, but I pretend it's not true. Wearing a costume stresses me out. I miss myself. I worry that I might not come back. I want to yell, I'm here! I'm still here! Under all of this! I haven't changed! Don't leave me!

Maybe my imagination is getting the best of me.

So, I'm fairly sure that the name I've been using here, Лёва (Lyova), translates to something like "Timmy." The problem is that most Russians can't say "Leo," and "Лев" (Lyev), the direct translation, comes across as very formal and pretentious.  I think that's mostly Tolstoi's legacy. Without Tolstoi, "лев" just means "lion," which would be fitting.

So they call me Лёва, and then they giggle.

For Halloween, I will be a bee!

yellow sweater
black electrical tape
black tights
black loafers
black gloves

bzzzzz

A university here really needs a new English teacher since my colleague and countryman fled the Siberian winter, and it's up to me to find one. A Catch-22: I haven't had time to search since I'm teaching extra classes now.

But enough griping. So I finally posted on a Slavic listserve about twelve hours ago, and now I have twenty five applicants. All qualified, all chomping at the bit.

It's a really strange situation. First of all, I've never reviewed anyone's resume before. Most of these people won't get the job, but maybe I could become their friend? Probably not what they're gaming for.

Most of them call me Mr. Brown. I told them to stop.

I think what I'll say is, if you really want to move to Siberia and teach English, send a resume to every university in this fair country. As far as I can tell, most have never dreamed that Americans would want to teach here. Talk about a communication gap. If I weren't swamped and knew how, I would set up a database.

Yo Hazelnut.

Yo Hazelnut! You!

You and me? We're through.

You hear me? Finished.

You're not worth my time or my money. What've you ever done for me, anyway.

Why should I pay for you when Almond and Cashew over there do the job just fine. You hear me?

You taste like wood.

Don't get down on yourself, there's nothing you could have done about it. I just don't wanna deal with it anymore.

Maybe I just need a break, I dunno.

And, I'm swamped. I think not for long. I'm determined not to remain so. I guess this swamp is a good sign - I'm still not fully settled in, and really, I think I should be able to last the year without ever being completely settled in. Point is, things are in flux, and I'm too busy at the moment, but I think next week will be better. And at least I'm busy.

One of my students invited me to join her tango group yesterday. They meet twice a week. I'd love to join, actually, but now is not the time. Oh, and she things I walk and move with grace, so she was shocked to realize that I am not a dancer by trade.

You catch that last bit?

Some signs of progress:

-I am now "registered" to borrow books from the library

-I can receive mail (my address is on the left sidebar)

-Moscow Times seems happy to interact with me and consider my stories

-I have a travel mug, a desk mug, and a water-boiler

-I am pleasantly busy

Things that still need sorting out:

-VKontakte (Russian facebook) is still giving me trouble

-I have not yet figured out a way to clean my nice shirts without using the rust-water from my faucet

-my fridge still smells funky after a thorough search and cleaning

-my sheets are not long enough (this one might be a lost cause)

-my pronunciation of the Russian R is in a volatile process of development

During English Club today, which I had bargained hard down to every other week, pulled out all the stops, I spontaneously and uncontrollably suggested that it would better and probably easier to just meet every week.

What, I'm becoming a person again?

Not sure how I feel about this.

Tonight, I'll feast upon Georgian food with the librarian. Food coma will surely help me to sort through things.

My friend,

You have stolen my knife. I left it in the kitchen, and now it is yours.

The maid did not steal my knife. You stole my knife. I paid three dollars for my knife. It was a dull knife.

You have stolen my dull knife.

Today, a new knife. It is powerful. I cut fish, vegetables, and cheese. It is long and dangerous. It glistens.

May your life with my dull knife be full and lucky.

And at last, my right arm is complete again.

Regards,

Лёва

Are people punished for living in New Hampshire?

Today, we learned about New England, but New Hampshire took the cake. They tried to sort through what I had said, to align it with their preexisting views of America.

Is it dangerous there?

I think I sorted things out in the end, managed to hash out the difference between truck-driving libertarian and Chechen rebel. Furrowed brows and dubious nods.

Live free or die.

Moscow corrected another of my misconceptions last night. I do not have friends in Russia. I have pals. Soon, perhaps, my pals will become friends. But now, they are pals. And this, Moscow explained, is why I miss home: because my pals have not yet become friends.

Moscow now knows that I am in Novosibirsk, and she has a solution. Move to Moscow! Things are better here. There can be no doubt.

Though there can be no doubt, one young journalist explained to me that Novosibirsk is, in fact, crucial to Russia's future as an innovator and leader in science and technology. I knew that my home base was an important hub of Soviet science, but she says it remains a vibrant contributor today. It's hard to tell, really, from the outside of all the institutes - geological, technical, brothers, cousins - whether they are more than a facade. But I think I will do a bit of research.

I prefer to know what is going on. I have to remind myself of this constantly. Check.

Heading back to the airport in a few minutes, and I will hop on a plane heading east.

I understood a full conversation between Russians! It was in a little groceries kiosk, and went as follows:

Vodka.
No.
Give me vodka.
No, it's after eleven, you can't have it.
Vodka.
Go away!
Give it to me.
Goodbye.
What's your problem?
Goodbye!

And I managed to crack her smile with a big, cheerful HELLO!

A strange, unprecedented silence fell upon the class as I explained the basics of Luther's 95 Theses.

We had just been chatting about this and that when I realized that only one student had any clue about the Protestant Reformation. So I started talking about the basics. Religious freedom, the printing press, pilgrims, this and that.

They were mesmerized! I have never seen such a quiet and attentive group of Russian students! I guess maybe they don't bother to teach this stuff, maybe because mother Rus' checked out of Western Christianity back in 1054?

What makes an excellent Sunday?

A new recipe helps. I was shocking some quick eggs while a young mom used the next burner over. Carrots, tomatoes, celery, garlic, onions, sliced thin, all sizzling in a pan, a glug of oil. Meatballs were on the ready, soon to be rolled into her hot soup!

Glug is how vegetable oil comes out, yes? I think so.

This gave me some ideas, and I added carrots to my shopping list, which was part of my day plan. I got some nice fat ones, thick ones from Altai, the mountainous region to the south. My carrots are caked in Altaiskii dirt.

On my way back from the store, a wonderfully large superstore with everything in the world but tofu and peanut butter, I walked by one of the little old ladies selling vegetables. They sit at low tables, or on stools, peddling. I've been suspicious of them, they certainly have a quaint air about them, but I don't want to be duped, for all I know, they just pick up some veggies at the megamart and sit on the streets looking cute.

I felt pretty silly ignoring them as I walked by with my gigantic grocery bag, so I bought some kind of tomato pepper garlic onion paste in a jar. Maybe I was duped, but I think this little old lady makes it herself, with vegetables from her garden, and I think this is how she got to be so old and pleasant. I think I'll go back to her stand, and maybe she will remember me.

Also, a note about violin club. I spent Sunday evening there, from 6-930. Violin club rehearses four times a week, each rehearsal bookended with a potluck feast.

Why do the Jews of Novosibirsk remain?

It brings me back to Cajuns I met south of New Orleans. Their barrier island persists only thanks to a large pump that moves sand from solid ground. That's when the surf is calm.

Even as the young and hopeful move away, even if most have assimilated beyond recognition, in a city borne of Soviet communism and popular anti-Semitism,

Most of them probably can't leave. Where would they go? No space in Israel, no jobs in America.

You can't just relocate a community, not even if it makes all the sense in the world, as the ground washes away beneath them.

My stomach is filled to its brim in preparation for atonement. I'm putting off Kol Nidre, just a tad, but to no avail, for I'm basically out of food. Planned it this way.

Things are starting to make a bit more sense around here. It helps to think less about how far away I am, and how I brought this upon myself, and more about simply being in a place, for a period of time. And I'll make of it what I will.

There's a paper I promised I'd finish by Halloween, and I'd like to nail it to the wall prior to my departure for Moscow on Thursday. So I've been spending large chunks of free time in undergraduate gear. Which explains the fever pitch of Facebook activity. Now you know.

Quick change of lesson plan for my “business English” class. Some questions for discussion:

*What is a visionary?

*How has Steve Jobs changed the world?

*Who are some other visionaries who have changed the way we live?

*What makes Apple different from other tech companies?

*What challenges does Apple and its new CEO, Tim Cook, now face?

*Should we all wear blue jeans and black turtles to work?

*Do you consider Apple products to be “revolutionary”? Why, or why not?

*What do you think Steve Jobs meant when he said, “A lot of times, people don’t know what they want until you show it to them”?

Not sure if I’ll use all of these, we’ll see how things go.

Now pick a partner and figure out how you plan to change the world!

Today, I joined a violin club. We rehearse four times a week! The catch is, you only show up when you feel like it. Today, we were three. I was put to the test! I suspect that only I was sight-reading.

Today, earlier today, I laid down the law. Said I:

I don't REALLY care if you giggle and text while your classmates are presenting

BUT

it's RUDE

and FURTHERMORE

I will give you a LOW GRADE if you

keep up this nonsense

now DON'T MAKE ME try to say this in RUSSIAN!

A good little meeting. And a consensus: Novosibirsk needs more trash cans.

We will ponder the name of our group. A good name is important.

The Russians are in charge of that.

We will meet on Fridays, but not this Friday.

I am silly, American, and a hippie for thinking that we might change a law.

I have never been to a bar in Novosibirsk? What is my problem? Have I been ill?

In Russia, the government is a force of nature. We can endure and hope for better days.

Today was pretty exhausting, so far - my "busy Monday." The news articles I brought in to discuss with the students turned out to be too hard for a couple of the classes, so I had to improvise. They are surprisingly happy to engage with group discussions or impromptu "pair presentations," and I am never at a loss for controversial issues to assign, so that's a good fallback.

I just now stuffed myself full of a splendid tuna salad, assembled with a dash of tartar sauce, a heap of slivered cabbage, cucumber+parm sandwichettes on the side. I went a little overboard with the cabbage, so I made a kapusta salad (a Russian thing) with the leftovers - olive oil, a bit of mayo, black pepper, balsamic vinaigrette. To be snacked later this evening.

Cabbages in my life have such inertia, but I love them so. For weeks, one will sit in my fridge, we eye one another on the daily, awaiting the fatal slices and chops. I put off the chore for another day, I regret my purchase, why not just crack an egg, but then when I finally do the deed, it is so crunchy and refreshing! A blast of flavor, just a passage removed from the dirt beneath our toes!

A new year in Novosibirsk, I found the Chabad house on day two of searching, which seems to be the only gig in town. The synagogue was extremely difficult to find, which I think is not an accident. I followed several false leads, ended up poking my head into the Catholic church across the street. A kind priest showed me the way.

I canceled classes for the new year, so I have a four-day weekend. It makes for a welcome pause after a very involved first week of immersion.

Some students from my "business English" class just stopped by to wish me a happy new year. They wanted me to tell them all about matzo, which I did!

Someone has changed my sheets! It is miraculous! I will make my bed as best I can, considering that they don't quite reach.

I met a fellow from Ghana today who reports that one Kwasi Poku is "a great man, very wise."

It is a bit taxing to introduce myself to several groups of new students every day. I need to remember that starting on Thursday, I'll be seeing most of the same faces (except for the faces that skipped class). Then, we can settle into a rhythm.

A full day of class today (beginning at 11:50). Now it is time to cook some onions, spinach, chicken, black pepper, olive oil, buckwheat.

My schedule now feels much more manageable now that I know the students. Pretty much across the board, they are engaged, respectful, and active. A bit shy at times.

I spent a good chunk of today's class time exploring my own agenda and discussing the prospect of environmental activism. Serendipitously, that is the assigned topic for the next few weeks, so I am vigorously picking their brains. That's a figure of speech I taught today: to pick a brain.

For the most part, they have an answer as to why every hopeful idea will not work. They told me of many failed projects, their sense of national apathy, and frustration with a corrupt government and police force. No point in imposing large fines for littering, this will just give the police an opening to take bribes.

In spite of their gloomy outlook, my students were happy to entertain a naive American and a vision of a cleaner, safer world. So far, nine of them have signed up for my proposed club, in which we will educate ourselves, discuss, and act.

Four classes and so far only one boy. What is with this!

I had a long conversation today with one of my classes (five girls) about people littering in Russia. They think it is partially because of the "Russian character" - lazy, alcoholic, passive. But they are quick to point out that, in fact, Russians are wonderful folk, good-hearted, industrious, and these negatives characteristics are just a stereotype imposed by foreigners. But then why is there trash everywhere?

I've been thinking about which specific issue might get people fired up. What if the Ob River, runs through the city, were safe to swim in? Is that realistic? Are any city rivers safe to swim in, anywhere in the world?

Now would be a good time to press for any sort of government action, what with Duma and presidential elections coming up in a few months. Even if street protest is taboo, United Russia would do well to prove its value and deliver what the people want.

The trick, I suppose, is getting the people to say what they want.

I have a new friend: Nastia. Nastia has noticed that I have the sniffles. Nastia thinks I am very irresponsible because I have not yet seen the doctor. Nastia wants me to know that winter in Siberia is extremely cold, and my sniffles will not go away if I continue to sit on the floor while I use my computer. In fact, Nastia knows that this foul habit is the cause of my sniffles. When Nastia writes down directions to the shopping center, she writes careful, large letters that I will surely be able to read. Nastia has gone to eat a snack, but Nastia will return promptly with more helpful suggestions.

Went to buy a fur hat today but it was $200! Gah! I'll shop around and find a good deal.

Some other things that I need:

a knife
umbrella

We went to the "sea" today, which is actually a big lake. There is garbage everywhere on the beach, and I wonder whether this bothers the Russians, whether Russia needs to be a big dump everywhere. Maybe the government could help to clean it up? I don't think it would take too much time and money to at least pick up the bottles.

I'm fairly sure that 100 years ago, Russia wasn't a big dump. How things have changed!

The park is bubbling with unicorns, mushrooms, penguins, tiger, and there I sit, at the foot of a stag, munching on little pieces of herring. Fall leaves swirl, whisper of frost to come.

I took a risk and opened my door. There stood three hall-neighbors, all exceedingly curious and not at all interested in speaking English. Jackpot.

knock knock knock knock knock

"Who is it?"

"Open the door!"

"Who are you?"

"Friends!"

"What?"

"We want have chat with you!"

Long story short, I peeped my nose through the crack and all was well. Such tame and sociable Russians. I think tomorrow, we're going to all hang out and get to know each other.

I have, I have been described as bumbling. And here, in this land of irregular steps and slippery stones, I am a hot mess of mushy kasha, I am highly focused on staying functional, but putting one foot in another has simply not happened! Fortunately I have not yet injured myself or anyone else. There is just so much to think about, but I still have to focus on the essentials!

I met my first class today. They are all young ladies, eight of them. They were doubtful of my goofy activities at first, but no longer. Apparently today's class was like none other, so they say. Check.

Luggage is coming tomorrow. I'll believe it when I see it!

Tomorrow night, there will be an "American Party" at "the best bar in town." Garrett and I are going to hit that with our down-home charm, boyish good looks, score some free drinks?

Things are strikingly normal here - people live, eat, study, work, procreate, probably some multitasking mixed in. I constantly forget that I am in Siberia, such a distant, remote land. So far, it makes no difference, except for a whopper of a flight.

Things I now have:

-a new button-down shirt, $12
-two button-down shirts left for me by Phillip (my predecessor)
-a cell phone
-Phillip's cross-country skis + winter garb
-chopsticks
-a head of lettuce, in dirt with roots, among other foodstuffs

Intrepid travelers Puppy and Grey Bear, if you are reading this, we are searching for you, and I will have prepared hot tea and a warm bed upon your arrival!

Fully loaded with green tea and protein, off to NGTU to meet the department. Score on the stovetop, I've got one, rather, we've got a few to share on the seventh floor, so I'm safe to buy eggs for the morning.

HOWEVER the breakfast is so cheap, I paid 50 rubles, about $1.50, and I'm still completely stuffed, that I might not be cooking each and every morning. For now, the fridge is full. And I have my own fridge, and it's in my locked room, so there are options, I'll take it one day at a time.

The dorm has wifi, but only in this one room, where I sit amongst giggly Russian first-years who want me to buy them vodka. They shut up pretty quickly whenever I start speaking English. It's sort of like a super power.

I'm all moved in, stocked up on some groceries, and I've got about everything I need (I think). There's one other American in the dorm, and he is exceedingly friendly. Garrett. I'll be wearing his button-down tomorrow, because I arrived with only little white tees for my upper half.

Twice already, I've been told that I'm in "the real Russia" or "the heart of Russia." Petersburg and Moscow are the facade. What does this all mean? I've got some Novosibirski cheese in my fridge, so maybe I'll have a taste of all that meaning soon enough.

On the train from Sheremetovo Airport to my wee rendezvous with Jon. Night is slowly giving way to a cloudy shimmer, the city and environs whir past - river, graffiti, rail tracks, crumbling Soviet slabs, onion domes, shiny banks.

I accidentally put a leaky water bottle in my coat pocket, so I've stretched that out to dry. Somehow, a wet coat pocket is more aggravating than two delays, a missed flight, and a lost piece of luggage.

I'll go pay attention to the scenery now.

Arrival in Novosibirsk has been finally, officially, inevitably delayed ~12 hours, hoping not to cause an inconvenience, but so it has gone. My Russian phone seems not to have survived a year in the states, maybe the battery corroded, but I've arranged a rendezvous with Eph+Muscovite Jon Earle, who will kindly guide me from SVO --> DMO.

Skyped with Travelocity and arranged a new flight out of Moscow, I've been instructed to Please check in with Ghana Airways Corp on the day of departure.  and that is what I shall do. Woke up this morning airborne with a hot meat sandwich on my lap, left by the LOT Polish Airlines stewardess who meant business. I'm off to redeem my free meal voucher now, given to me in exchange for the troubles I've seen, troubles which, to date, have not bothered me.

Announcements are in Polish, no translation, here I am in Chicago. I've got a new flight now. Several hours in Albany, a weather-related delay, while my scheduled flight left Chicago for Warsaw without me. The party line: Leo Brown's luggage will be in Moscow upon his arrival.

Announcements are in Polish, and I might be the only passenger who notices or cares, but we are a hearty crop, and I will board as one of the herd.

I hope they will feed me dinner. My original flight was to leave at Time for Supper, but this one is for 21:50. This new flight is now delayed. They told us (in English, for some reason) as I wrote that last sentence. In case they do not feed me dinner, I bought a bag of nuts, which I gobbled only partially. The rest is in my pocket, just in case.